Ahhhh Vienna...

Having been to Vienna a couple of times now and researched the must-visit cafe's somewhat obsessively, I feel like I've got a fairly good steer - at least when it comes to the historic or traditional ones in the ring.  As well as consulting the regular guides, I also reached out directly to local expat-bloggers for their top tips - as a destination blogger myself I'm slightly biased about them offering the best recommendations! 

It's also important to bear in mind that I've always been just before Christmas so we didn't visit countryside Heuriger or enjoy city-based terraces

So, here you go:

Restaurants

I've been to Figlmuller before (which tourist guides will tell you serves the best schnitzel) and totally avoided it this time.  Its super-touristy (huge ads at the baggage carousel when you land!) and I don't even think the schnitzel is that good.

Plachutta

There are several branches.  Head to the Wollzeile one and book ahead.  You will find a few tourists here but lots of locals too.  The food is fabulous , the service (though very Viennese) is charming and they are rightly infamous for their Tafelspitz.  It's amazing but so is the schnitzel and just about everything else.

Meissl & Schadn

We stayed at the Grand Ferdinand Hotel on the ring (great hotel) and spontaneously had lunch in the downstairs restaurant before heading to the airport - not something we'd usually do.  It's modern and specialises in schnitzel (they even do schnitzel cooking demos) and are often listed as one of the best Modern Viennese schnitzel venues in the city.  Needless to say it was rather good!.  You do need to book, even at lunchtime although I'd suggest it more for an evening meal and use your lunches for cafe-grazing.

Gmoa Keller

This was a restaurant recommended to me by a blogger.  And it was AMAZING.  We had an incredible meal, lovely place, authentic, classy but in a totally unpretentious and informal way, not touristy.  I would venture beyond schnitzel here.  We had a herring starter that was one of the most unexpectedly brilliant things we ate on our last trip - possibly the standout item.  I think they have outside seating in Summer.

Other places that make it to lots of tourist guides are Grichenbeisl which is the oldest tavern in Vienna and Wratschko's.  I thought on balance both looked a little touristy although one of the Vienna bloggers said both were classics for a reason.

If you're looking for a great place for schnitzel for lunch, I've been pointed at Schnitzelwirt but we weren't in the right place at the right time.

For something more modern, everyone raves about the original Motto and Motto am Fluss (the latter on the water is especially noted for brunch, both are full of hip young Viennese.  The original is a bit of a celeb-magnet)

Here is what a blogger wrote to me about the original Motto - we would have liked to have gone but ran out of evenings!:

If its a date night and you want something a bit cool and different, I'd recommend the original Motto in the 5th district. A bit sexy, a bit interesting, dark moody lighting, touch of hipster cool and a good mix of cool and classic food. 

Finally, one other expat recommend:

Restaurant 1070 , it's quirky, small, intimate and there are no menus. The waitress asks what you don't like, and then they bring tapas like plates of the most locals, fresh dishes the chef makes from that days market purchases. Its always really good quality, a bit of fun and there are wines to pair. I took a big group of family and friends here for Christmas one year and it was perfect! Although your fam needs to be up for the fun intrigue of no menus

Coffee Houses

Ok, get ready.  We went to a LOT!  They all have a slightly different atmosphere and the joy lies in mostly stopping off regularly (breakfast, mid-morning, lunch, mid-afternoon, late night...) for a coffee and cake.  Don't bother with the cafe at the Sacher Hotel or the Mozart Cafe.  Both have snaking lines of tourists and never, ever ever any locals.

Cafe Central

Yes, there'll be a queue of tourists but its worth it for the magnificent room and fabulous food.  You can't come to Vienna and not go to Central - hugely historic and for good reason.

Hawelka

A bit like walking into The Coffee Cup in Hampstead.  A little shambling in the nicest possible way, old posters on the walls, cosy, gruff waiters.  Read Leo Hawelka's obituary in the Guardian on your phone whilst you're there.  Absolutely charming

Cafe Schwartzenberg

Really like it here.  A little off the tourist trail and next to our hotel so went for breakfast on both recent trips.  They are famous for their hot chocolate.  Lots of local business people come here for breakfast.  

Kleines Cafe

A tiny cafe as the name suggests in the old part of town.  I'd heard that locals love it (often for a drink after work) though it felt a little more like clued up tourists when we were there.

Cafe Sperl

Wonderful cafe with pool tables and grumpy waiters.  Lots of history, good food.  First time I went I had this down as a favourite but it was a bit more touristy on our last visit

Zum Schwartzen Kameel

Upmarket, in the poshest part of town.  Open sandwiches and more.  Lots of ladies who lunch.  Book if you want to guarantee getting a spot.  Nice for breakfast.  Lots of people milling outside and enjoying a drink at the high tables.

Cafe Landtmann

Legendary patisseries.  Fairly grand.  Worth booking if you can.  Have had both a wonderful lunch and a great breakfast here.  Mixture of locals and visitors.

Cafe Museum

We stumbled in here after going to a football match (!) and it ended up being one of our faves.  Hard to say if it was the moment in time, the serendipity, the venue or the food but it does serve Landmann patisseries and if you can make up your mind in less than 5 minutes as to which to choose you're WAY more decisive than me.

Cafe Diglas

Possibly Marc's favourite.  A bit old school, unpretentious, on the lovely Wolzeile (there are actually two branches in town), great coffee, cosy, wonderful cakes, I'm dreaming of going back.

Trzesniewski

Not a cafe but a legendary open finger-sandwich venue.  Trzesniewski came from Poland in 1902 and set up shop in Vienna.  Locals have come for over 100 years to enjoy the tiny sandwiches (choose a selection as they are two bites apiece) served on rectangles of rye.  Stand at the little tables and enjoy your stash - with a little knockback of beer or even vodka.  Fabulous.

Cafe Goldegg

If you're going to the Belverdere, head here before or after.  Rather than the gentlemen waiters you get everywhere else, here the female waitresses are real characters.  Its hugely popular with locals (almost fully booked when we went as it opened on Saturday morning) - watch out, they cheekily brought three rolls with my breakfast and then charged me extra for one as the breakfast itself 'only includes two'!

Further blogger recommends as follows:

The only classic cafe I'd add to your list is Dommayer in Hietzing - a handy one if you spend half a day wandering around Schönbrunn, its nearby and filled with actual Viennese people, not just tourists! 

Of course I'm always going to reccommend my fave 'modern' coffee spot and hangouts in Schwendermarkt too - GOTA for the coffee (Austria's #1 barista) and Landkind for the food and community feels.

Coffee Houses - what to order

Breakfast - Ei im glas; rolls with apricot jam (only place I eat this) and orange juice (the sweetest you'll ever have)

Lunch - Sacher wurstel with grated horseradish and mustard

Dessert - unbelievable cakes and desserts everywhere

Coffee - try as many of the 13 kinds as you can from Einspanner to Melange - always served with a glass of water on the side

Other foodie stuff

Julius Meinl am Graben

One of my favourite food shops in the world.  I could spend hours here.  Closed on Sunday.  Buy mustard in tubes (Kremser is the classic - with tarragon or horseradish if you fancy).  And stollen, and sausages and jams ......

Oberlaa

Best chocolate and confectionary shop bar none.  There are a few branches.  They were doing up the one on Neuer Markt when we were there last time and it was closed which is a bummer because its got the most atmosphere.  My dad is literally obsessed with the Maroni which are chocolates filled with fresh chestnut cream - literally the king of confectionary.

Guidebooks go on about the Naschmarkt.  I never really got it.  I'm sure there are some good restaurants around there but the market itself and the food on sale just isn't that amazing in my opinion.

Also in every guidebook is Demel where you can see the cakes being made.  IF (and its a big if) you can fight past the Japanese tourists to the prep room at the back, its worth a look but don't be too disappointed if you end up giving it a miss.

Christmas Markets

There are Christmas Markets and Christmas Markets - some are touristy and full of tat, others are literally magnificent.  Best of all is the food served there so if you are in Vienna over Christmas allow AT LEAST one meal to graze the best of what the markets have to offer.  Go at dusk or beyond for the full experience.

Rathaus

Honestly it may be the biggest but I'd avoid the Rathaus market.  It's SO touristy and busy that you can't even cross from one side to another.   Too hectic and lacking in charm.  

Am Hof

We really loved this market and came back a number of times.  Small, central but really, really great for food and lovely handmade items for sale.  Classy and with an exceptional sausage and dried meat stall amongst other treasures.

Maria-Theresien-Platz

Between the main museums, nice market, manageable size.  Much of the same stuff as elsewhere but nicely presented.

Karlsplatz

If you go to just one market I'd say make it this.  The setting is indescribably beautiful in the shadow of the Karlskirche, hay bales for kids in the centre, farmyard animals and strictly artisan stalls that have to be approved by committee.  Indeed some of the items are rather expensive.  As we arrived on our first night, it snowed.  Can't guarantee you'll have the same but its magical in any weather.

Spittelberg

People rave about Spittelberg as it covers three cobbled streets in the arty part of town.  We found it more touristy than some, with items for sale that were more reminiscent of Camden Market than true handcrafted delights.  Still worth dropping by if you're in the area.

Stephansplatz

Around the side of the cathedral is a small market.  Of course you'll find lots of tourists here but its actually rather nice in the evening as it backs on to some of the older and more characterful streets in town.

Altes AKH

This was our favourite market, perhaps because we literally stumbled into it unknowingly.  Based in a university campus courtyard we went on a Saturday when there were pony rides for kids, a small train and some wonderful food both fresh and from deli stalls.  Loved it here and full of young local families. 

There are also markets at the Belverdere and Schönbrunn

Christmas Market Food

• Sausages - obviously.  Bratwurst, currywurst or kasekrainer (wurst with bits of cheese inside).  In a bun or without.  Served with mustard always.  Magnificent
• Langos - deep fried rounds of Hungarian dough.  Plain, painted with garlic oil or topped with sour cream and cheese.  Watch them stretch it in front of your eyes before dropping it in boiling fat
• Käse-spätzle- cheesy doughy squirls of noodles.  Total heaven
• Raclette - melted cheese.  On toast.  Lots.  Of.  Cheese.
• Doughnuts and pretzels (known as bretzles) - usually as big as your head.  Possibly bigger.  Sweet and savoury
• Potatoes - jacket potatoes, kartuffelpuffer (potato puffer like a rosti), potatoes cubed with sausage and cabbage.  Lots and lots and lots of potato
• Soup - served in a bowl of bread
• Nuts - urns of roasted chestnuts as well as sugared almonds and more.

Christmas Market Drinks

Gluhwein, Punsch, Hot Chocolate.  Strong liquor, or milder wines.  Fumes that make you high before you've even taken a sip, drunk out of a cheesy mug or even one shaped like a boot.  I love that Vienna has totally rejected paper or plastic cups.  The price of the drink includes a deposit and you get to keep the mug or return it for a refund at any surrounding stall.

Oh, and as well as food there is some stunning art and wonderful corners to explore and wander through.

Walk around the oldest quarters and get lost for half a day.

Both the Albertina and the Belverdere are rightly top of every list for art (do whatever it takes to avoid the hoards of tourists snogging for selfies under Klimt's The Kiss - try going when it opens and race upstairs).

I have a particularly soft spot for the AMAZING Leopold Museum, not only for the breathtaking Egon Schiele rooms but also the floors above with the Wien 1900 exhibition.